DIY Guides

How to Convert Fujifilm S4300 To A Full Spectrum Camera

The tricky part of this camera conversion it needs a glass in the front of the sensor. Otherwise, it does not focus.

But we can overcome this obstacle by fitting Borosilicate glass in the front of the sensor. We just need a Dremel tool and some diamond bits for it.

The glass cutting with Dremels is straightforward. You will need a tube for water, a diamond bit (not expensive) and preferably an extension for Dremel. The extension is necessary because water will get into our Dremel if we cut the glass in the water tube.

Here is our Dremel.

Here is the extension.

And here are the diamond bits.

You will also need:

• An antistatic bracelet
• Soldering iron, some soldering wire
• Borosilicate (Borofloat) glass
• 3M double sided tape
• Safe knife
• Small screwdrivers

Those diamond bits are about 4 USD for 30 pieces. Eventually, they wear out, but you can cut a lot of glass with each.

Now we must know the size of our glass. And for this, we need to disassemble the camera.

Disconnect ribbon cables and remove the top.

You will need to use a soldering iron to de-solder some cables.

I de-solder power cables but not from the PCB. This way it is easier to solder them back in.

Take out this metal cover. The sensor is underneath it.

Now it’s necessary to make the sensor level again when assembling. For this, I have a marked screwdriver.

I do this:

• Tighten each screw writing down how many degrees you turned the screwdriver.
• Unscrew those screws.
• For full spectrum we will leave those number the same (actually we would move the sensor to the front by turning each screw 180 degrees, but on this camera model, there is no way to shift the sensor to the front.
• For infrared conversion, I would add to each number 180 degree (shift the sensor to the back).
• When assembling, tighten all screws and turn them anticlockwise according to your notes. Also turn extra degrees anticlockwise for infrared conversions. For full spectrum conversions leave the same degree numbers or if the camera does not focus on turning them clockwise slightly to shift the sensor to the front.

Now take the sensor out, put the springs and screws into the bag and cover the camera.

We will take out the hot mirror.

It’s been held in the place by a sticky plastic which can be removed with a knife. Try to keep the sensor facing down to protect it from any dust.

Measure the plastic part of the sensor and cut 4 pieces (about 2mm wide) of double-sided tape.

Stick those pieces to the plastic.

Quickly remove the paper layer from double-sided tape. This is because paper particles are light and can fly into the sensor if there is any air movement.

Those tape lengths are our glass dimensions. Make those numbers bigger by 1mm and cut the glass with Dremel.

Prepare the glass, clean it with a lens cleaning spray and make sure there is no dust on it. Use a 250lm or stronger ED light. I use front light from a bicycle.

Stick the glass to the sensor plastic.

Assemble the camera. Level the sensor using my description above.

Remember to raise the flash when putting the top back in.

If not, the small switch can be damaged and then the flash will fire all the time even when the flash is closed so you will need to disable it in the camera’s menu.

Have You Ever Converted A Digital Camera To Infrared Or A Full Spectrum

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